Fancy Cut Diamonds and What You Need to Know

When talking about diamonds, people often immediately think of a brilliant and sparkling round stone. Therefore, the round brilliant cut is the most common diamond shape with 58 meticulously cut facets. Besides the round cut, all other diamond shapes are collectively called Fancy cut (fancy cut, unique cut, creative cut).

How many shapes do Fancy cut diamonds have?

As mentioned, all diamond shapes that are not the traditional round shape are considered Fancy cut. Simply by changing the main faceting style, polishing style, and step cutting, countless different variations can be created.

Each new diamond shape is designed to maximize light refraction and create eye-catching sparkle.

Round diamonds and Fancy cut diamond types

Following the flow of fashion, each year people create more unique and brilliant cuts. This happens so quickly that GIA (the gemological grading organization) and other organizations still have not been able to summarize the exact number.

In this article, Jemmia will classify for you some of the most popular Fancy cut types. They are divided into 3 groups: modified, step cut, and mixed.

Discover the beauty of diamonds through each cut

Modified brilliants (Modified diamonds)

Among Fancy cut diamond types, Modified brilliant is the most basic and most commonly seen form. Simply put, this is a type of diamond modified from the traditional round shape. It includes popular cuts such as oval, pear, heart…

Fancy cut boat-shaped diamond (Marquise brilliant)

Marquise diamond brilliant has an elongated round shape that narrows toward both ends. Legend has it that King Louis XIV of France was deeply enamored with Madame de Pompadour – a marchioness, based on the perfect shape of his lover’s lips. After that, marquise (marchioness) was used to name the diamond. In addition, this diamond is also called a boat-shaped diamond or eye-shaped diamond.

Boat-shaped diamond

Because it is derived from the round shape, the marquise diamond still retains the basic 58 facets. These include 33 facets on the surface and 25 facets on the pavilion. However, sometimes the pavilion is divided into 4, 6, or 8 main facets. At the same time, the bezel facet is removed, creating a French Tip.

The important factor in evaluating whether a Marquise diamond meets standards is its symmetry. Specifically, the ratio between its length and width should only range from 1.75-2.25. If it falls outside this range, light reflection will not be optimized. This creates dark areas at the center of the diamond in the shape of a bow tie, seriously affecting the stone’s aesthetics and value.

The advantage of this Fancy cut diamond style is the size effect. When placed next to a round diamond with the same color and carat, the marquise diamond always appears larger and more brilliant. In addition, this stone also makes the wearer’s finger look much slimmer.

See more of Jemmia’s diamond ring crafting process

Fancy cut teardrop / pear-shaped diamond ( Pear cut)

The pear-shaped cut diamond was invented in 1458 by a Polish polisher named Louis Van Bequem.

While the Marquise diamond is pointed at both ends, the pear cut diamond has only one tapered point, while the other end is rounded. The classic length-to-width ratio of a pear diamond ranges from 1.5 to 1.75. When this ratio changes, the length and thickness of the base change accordingly.

This variation does not greatly affect the durability or brilliance of the diamond. Therefore, depending on personal preference, you can choose a slender or plump teardrop diamond.

Pear-shaped diamond

Traditionally, pear-shaped diamond rings are designed so that the pointed tip faces downward. This way of wearing it helps the hand look more slender and graceful. But nowadays, this diamond ring can be worn in many different ways.

Not only do people point the tip upward, many also rotate the stone sideways to create uniqueness. As long as its most vulnerable pointed part is securely protected. The most effective way is to use a V-prong or a bezel setting around the stone.

A small note is that pear cut diamonds often do not hide inclusions and color as well as round diamonds. Therefore, you should choose a diamond with high clarity, color H or higher, or one with fancy colors.

Heart-shaped diamond (Heart cut)

For those who love romance, Heart diamond is a perfect choice. This is a type of diamond modified from the round diamond using the Heart-Shaped Modified Brilliant technique.

Since the 16th century, heart-shaped diamonds have appeared and stood out on Queen Elizabeth’s ring. However, to this day the number of heart-shaped diamonds on the market is extremely small compared to other shapes. The reason is that rough diamonds used to cut heart shapes must be large, and the cutter’s skill must be exceptionally refined.

Like round diamonds, this Fancy cut diamond has 56-58 facets. When well cut, it will have brilliant brightness and a unique, distinctive shape.

According to experts, the closer the length-to-width ratio of a heart-shaped diamond is to 1:1, the better. And you should also choose a stone with a size of 1 carat or more so that its shape is the clearest. In addition, the balance and symmetry of the heart are also things you should pay attention to.

Although it has a unique shape and meaning, many people hesitate to choose heart-shaped diamonds because of their price and size. With the same carat weight, heart cut always costs more and looks smaller than other types.

Fancy cut square diamond (Princess cut)

According to statistics, square diamonds are the most popular and beloved shape after round diamonds. Princess diamonds are created with 76 delicate facets that produce extremely brilliant light.

Square diamond

Besides square diamonds, rectangular diamonds are also commonly called Princess. In which, the ideal ratio for a square diamond ranges from 1 to 1.04. The suitable length-to-width ratio for rectangular diamonds is 1.07 to 1.15.

On the market, the price of this Fancy cut diamond type is usually cheaper than round diamonds. The reason is that the square cutting technique is not too complicated. In addition, the loss rate during rough cutting is only about 30 – 40%.

 Cushion cut diamond

This is a diamond cutting style modified from the Princess diamond. It combines the square and rectangular cut styles with four rounded corners like a cushion.

Cushion-shaped diamond

Compared to round diamonds, cushion diamonds reflect less light but have more vivid fire. The ideal width-to-length ratio ranges from 1.1 to 1.3.

Oval / elliptical diamond (Oval cut)

Developed in the 1960s, oval diamonds resemble marquise diamonds but with more rounded ends. This design makes them less prone to chipping while still maintaining uniqueness.

This is a very fashionable type of diamond because it suits all hand shapes and sizes. In addition, its price is also cheaper than round diamonds, and its size appearance is more impressive.

Oval diamond

Classic oval diamonds usually have 4 or 6 prongs. The length-to-width ratio ranges from 1.3 to 1.6. Like marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, oval diamonds also show the bow-tie effect. When buying, you should pay attention to this to ensure the jewelry’s aesthetics.

Step cut (Step-cut diamonds)

Step cut diamonds are a technique used for square or rectangular diamonds. Parallel lines, surrounding lines, or successive steps like a pyramid style are created. This helps draw the viewer’s attention to the center of the stone.

Types of step-cut diamonds

Compared to round diamonds or modified diamonds, step-cut diamonds always have a larger surface. The three most common diamond types using this cut are Asscher, Emerald and Baguette.

When buying step-cut diamonds, there are two things you must pay special attention to: clarity and facets.

• Step-cut diamonds have a large surface, limited depth, and fewer facets than other types of diamonds. Inclusions are very easy to detect and significantly affect the stone’s brightness. Therefore, you should choose a diamond with high purity and clarity.
• Although GIA does not yet have a grading standard for the cut quality of step-cut diamonds, the quality of symmetry and proportion will determine the diamond’s brilliance. Therefore, when buying, you should also pay attention to the facets to ensure the stone is always symmetrical and radiant.

Fancy cut Asscher-shaped diamond

Asscher diamond

This is an octagonal diamond with many layers and 74 facets. Viewed from above, you will see that the stone is a collection of concentric squares. This creates a visual effect that makes the stone look deeper. Many experts liken the Asscher diamond to “a hallway with endlessly sparkling mirrors.”

Emerald cut diamond

The emerald diamond is the rectangular version of the Asscher diamond. In it, concentric rectangles are arranged parallel to each other, helping focus the gaze on the middle of the stone. At the same time, the corners of the rectangle are also trimmed. This helps increase stability and durability.

Emerald diamond

The ideal ratio for Emerald diamonds ranges from 1.3 to 1.6. Like other step-cut diamonds, the inclusions in this diamond are also very easy to see. Experts recommend that you choose a stone with clarity of VS2 or higher.

Baguette diamond

This is a small, shallow rectangular Fancy cut diamond. Its name is inspired by the long, slender French baguette.

Baguette diamond

Baguette diamonds have a total of 14 facets, far fewer than other diamond types. In jewelry, baguette diamonds are not used alone. Jewelers often use them as side stones for rings or necklaces. In addition, baguette diamonds are also used in three-stone rings or eternity rings.

Mixed cut Fancy diamonds (Mixed cut)

Mixed cut diamonds are a combination of step cut and brilliant cut techniques. This cut can be used for most of the diamond shapes mentioned above. It helps increase brilliance and reduce flaws.

Advantages and disadvantages of fancy-shaped diamonds

After reviewing the basic forms of Fancy cut diamonds, the article will analyze their advantages and limitations.

Advantages of Fancy cut diamonds

Fashionability and uniqueness

While round-cut diamonds are highly valued for their timeless beauty, Fancy cut is a symbol of fashion trends. For example, the 1980s were the era of Princess diamonds. At that time, ladies loved large stones, bright colors, and unique geometric designs. Before that, from the 1950s to the 1970s, Emerald diamonds were considered legendary. This stone evokes royalty, nobility, and luxury.

Classic-style teardrop diamond ring

Until recently, cushion-cut diamonds became the most popular. The reason is that they possess the sparkling, classic beauty of round diamonds, while also appearing larger and more unique.

Following the flow of fashion, Fancy cut diamond styles are always being upgraded and innovated. Therefore, they symbolize trendiness, distinction, and personality.

Many Fancy cut diamonds are colored diamonds

To create a round diamond, a large loss ratio must be accepted. Therefore, to maximize diamond weight, most rare colored stones use Fancy cut.

You can find many famous colored diamonds cut in special styles.

Blue Moon diamond

For example, the 287-carat Tiffany yellow diamond is cut in a cushion style; the Blue Heart deep blue diamond weighs 30.82 carats; the 12.03-carat Blue Moon diamond is also cut in a cushion style; the rare green Dresden diamond is cut in a pear shape…

Fancy cut diamonds are cheaper than round diamonds

Fancy cut diamonds are a more economical and fashionable choice

Because they optimize the weight of the rough diamond, Fancy cut diamonds are usually cheaper than round diamonds of the same carat and color, helping you save considerable costs.

Color and size effects

Fancy cut diamonds come in many shapes, suitable for all hand shapes and sizes. Some styles such as oval, pear, marquise... also help fingers look long and balanced.

When placed side by side, Fancy cut diamonds always look larger than round diamonds

When placed next to round diamonds, Fancy cut diamonds always stand out and are more eye-catching. Although they may not sparkle as much, they always have vivid fire. Optical effects also make fancy-shaped diamonds appear larger.

The diversity of shapes and styles means Fancy cut diamonds appear in many types of jewelry. Specifically, heart, emerald, and teardrop diamonds often appear in pendants. Cushion, Princess, and oval diamonds are favored in engagement rings and earrings.

Limitations of Fancy cut diamonds

It is very difficult to determine a standard Fancy diamond

When you buy a round diamond, you can determine its value through the 4C standard. However, with Fancy cut diamonds, this standard has certain limitations. The reason is:

• Fancy cut diamonds come in many shapes. Besides common styles, there are also triangle diamonds, star diamonds, butterfly shapes…
• The cuts of fancy-shaped diamonds often depend on the size and shape of the rough diamond, leading to variation in the ratio between length and width. In fact, many famous Fancy cut diamonds have facets that are not symmetrical at all.

There are many types of Fancy cut diamonds

Currently, GIA is trying to build a complete scoring chart to grade Fancy diamond cuts. Before that project is completed, all quality assessments are based only on personal perception. This makes the value of this type of diamond not truly accurate.

Fancy cut diamonds easily reveal flaws

Most fancy-shaped diamond styles have shallower depth and a wider surface than round diamonds. This makes inclusions or impure color easier to see with the naked eye. This is especially true for step-cut diamonds such as Emerald or Asscher, which require rough diamonds of good quality and special color.

Bow-tie effect

In addition, the bow-tie effect also often appears in Fancy diamonds. It creates unwanted dark areas in the center of the stone. To overcome this, a highly skilled jeweler is needed.

Some fancy-shaped diamonds require special care

Although diamonds are the hardest stones in the world, that does not mean they cannot be damaged. Diamonds with pointed corners such as Princess, pear, and marquise can chip if struck hard. Therefore, they need to be protected with V-prongs or a surrounding metal bezel.

V-prongs in jewelry help protect the pointed corners of diamonds

Through this article, it can be seen that Fancy cut diamonds are a trendy and unique type of diamond, meeting many styles, personalities, and customer needs.

Jemmia Diamond – A reputable place to buy diamonds

JEMMIA DIAMOND is a diamond expert, a company authorized by the Gemological Institute of America GIA to import and distribute genuine GIA-certified diamonds. Therefore, diamonds purchased at Jemmia always have clear origins, guaranteed quality, global credibility, and worldwide value.
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