The Beauty of the Asscher Diamond Cut
Key Takeaways
- The Asscher cut is a square octagonal cut with step-cut facets, creating a deep and captivating "Hall of Mirrors" effect. This is the perfect choice for those who love classic Art Deco...
The Asscher cut is a square octagonal cut with step-cut facets, creating a deep and captivating "Hall of Mirrors" effect. This is the perfect choice for those who love classic Art Deco beauty and the absolute clarity of diamonds. Let Jemmia help you learn about the Asscher diamond cut to choose a stone with standard GIA specifications and the most budget-optimized option
What is the Asscher cut?
The Asscher cut is a square octagonal cut with step-cut facets, carrying the strong architectural mark of the 1920s.
Created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, this was the first diamond design in the world to be protected by copyright. Unlike modern cuts that focus on multicolored sparkle, the Asscher celebrates the beauty of straight lines and geometric shapes. When looking at an Asscher stone, you are not just seeing a gemstone but admiring a work of art that represents the Art Deco style – the intersection of aristocratic classicism and luxurious minimalism.

The Asscher cut is a square octagonal cut with step-cut facets,
Characteristics of the Asscher diamond style
Asscher-style diamonds originally had 58 facets. The characteristics of the Asscher are the combination of a square octagonal shape, step-cut facets, and mesmerizing depth. To identify an expert-standard Asscher stone, you can rely on the following 4 details:
- Octagonal shape: An overall square form but with 4 beveled corners. This design creates a classic look while also helping protect the stone from chipping better than the Princess cut.
- Step-cut facets: The facets are polished parallel to the edges like stair steps. Instead of multicolored sparkle, the Asscher focuses on clarity and transparent light transmission.
- High crown & Small table: This structure helps the Asscher retain more "fire" (colored light) than the Emerald cut, even though both belong to the step-cut group.
- "X" focal point: When viewed face-up from above, the cut lines from the 4 corners must converge precisely at the center to form a sharp "X" shape. This is proof of a stone crafted with perfect symmetry.

Characteristics of the Asscher diamond style
See more: How Much Does a 9.4 mm Diamond Cost Today?
How to choose an Asscher-style diamond?
With Asscher, prioritize "Clarity" first, then Color and Carat weight. Due to its step-cut facet structure and wide table, the Asscher acts like a "magnifying glass" that reveals every internal imperfection:
- Clarity: You should choose VS2 or higher. Even the smallest inclusions are easily detected in this cut style. If choosing SI1, make sure that the stone is "eye-clean" (clean to the naked eye).
- Color: The step-cut style tends to retain color in the octagonal corners. If using a white gold/platinum ring setting, choose color grades D-H. If using a yellow gold setting, you can go down to color grades I-J to save costs.
Frequently asked questions about Asscher diamonds (FAQ)
Are the Asscher cut and the Emerald cut the same?
The Asscher cut is square, while the Emerald cut is rectangular. Both use the step-cut technique, but the Asscher focuses on central symmetry and depth, while the Emerald prioritizes length to make the finger look more slender.
Does the Asscher diamond sparkle as much as the Princess cut?
The Asscher diamond does not sparkle as much as the Princess cut. Princess is a Brilliant-cut style (light dispersion), so it will be more sparkling and radiant. The Asscher leans toward clarity and depth reflection (luster).
Are the Asscher cut and Royal Asscher the same?
No. Royal Asscher is an exclusive upgraded version with 74 facets (compared to 58 facets in the standard version), delivering significantly greater brightness but also costing 20-30% more.

Answers to questions about Asscher cut diamonds
In general, the Asscher diamond style is not more expensive than diamonds with other cuts of the same carat weight. However, finding a high-quality diamond with this cut is truly not easy, and it is also quite selective about the wearer's hand. Asscher is almost exclusively suitable for jewelry in a classic style.