The Beauty of the Round Diamond Cut
Key Takeaways
- The Round diamond cut (also called the Brilliant Cut) is the most popular round diamond cut in the world, accounting for more than 70% of diamonds crafted on the market. With a...
The Round diamond cut (also called the Brilliant Cut) is the most popular round diamond cut in the world, accounting for more than 70% of diamonds crafted on the market. With a structure of 57 or 58 facets meticulously calculated according to the physical laws of refraction, this cut optimizes light reflection to create superior brilliance and fire compared to all other cuts.
Key Takeaway
- The Round cut diamond was invented by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 based on a mathematical formula of light.
- The round cut has a structure of 58 facets (including the culet), helping it capture light from every angle.
- Premium variations of the round diamond include the Hearts & Arrows effect (8 hearts & 8 arrows) and Lucky Star (105 facets).
- The Depth and Table of a round diamond are the two factors that determine whether the stone is bright or dull.
The birth of the Round diamond cut
The Round cut modern is the result of Marcel Tolkowsky's scientific research on light reflection in 1919. He established a gold standard for cutting rough diamonds to achieve the greatest sparkle.
- Tolkowsky formula: Determines the precise proportions between facets so that light entering through the table will undergo total internal reflection through the pavilion facets and return to the viewer's eye.
- 58-facet structure: This laid the foundation for the modern jewelry-making era, helping diamonds transform from rough stones into symbols of brilliance.

The modern Round cut is the result of Marcel Tolkowsky's scientific research on light reflection in 1919
Why is the Round diamond style considered the most popular today?
The Round cut dominates absolutely thanks to its timeless classic design and compatibility with all types of jewelry.
- High versatility: Accounts for 60% of engagement ring choices thanks to its neutral beauty, suitable for both classic and modern styles.
- Optical effect: The perfectly symmetrical round shape makes the diamond appear more sparkling even in low-light conditions.
- Sustainable value: Even after hundreds of years, the Round cut still maintains its leading position in market demand and liquidity.

The Round cut dominates absolutely thanks to its timeless classic design and compatibility with all types of jewelry.
See more: How much is a 4.3 mm diamond?
Round diamond cut variations are becoming increasingly refined
For more than a century, artisans have upgraded Tolkowsky's formula to create variations with extreme sparkle.
1. Hearts & Arrows diamonds (8 Hearts & 8 Arrows)
These are diamonds with exceptionally perfect symmetry. When viewed through a specialized scope, you will see:
- Viewed from the top: 8 balanced arrows.
- Viewed from the bottom: 8 uniform hearts.
- Occurrence rate: Only about 1% of round diamonds in the world achieve this level of sophistication.
2. Lucky Star diamond (105 facets)
Inspired by the dazzling phenomenon of stars and the architecture of Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral.
- Structure: Increased from 58 to 105 facets.
- Effect: Creates the image of a 16-point star on the top and a 16-petal flower on the pavilion, delivering stronger and more brilliant fire than usual.

For more than a century, artisans have upgraded Tolkowsky's formula to create variations with extreme sparkle.
See more: The beauty of the Radiant diamond cut
How is the quality of a Round diamond evaluated?
The Cut Grade of a Round diamond directly affects its light performance.
| Parameter | Too shallow cut | Ideal cut (Excellent) | Too deep cut |
| Light path | Escapes through the bottom of the stone. | Reflects back to the viewer's eye. | Bounces to the side facets and then escapes. |
| Visual effect | The stone looks faint and lacks brilliance. | Brilliant, sparkling, and with strong fire. | The stone looks dark, dull, and has a black center. |
| Depth percentage | Below 58% | 59% - 62.5% | Above 63% |
The Round diamond cut is not only a symbol of eternal beauty but also the pinnacle of jewelry craftsmanship. With its outstanding ability to optimize light and high resale value, it remains the safest and most prestigious choice for all types of jewelry, from proposal rings to high-end collections.